November 2, 2013

I have just spent three nights on the 4th floor of a huge former monastery right across a square from the north transept of the cathedral in Santiago.  Spartan, to say the least but a good bed and plenty of hot water.  The room was about 6'x12 with high western windows on the west.

The first day, the day I arrived, was a glorious autumn day, sky as blue as New Mexico and no wind.  I put the several enticing museums out of my mind and just walked around.  Santiago is one of the least modernized, that is, most medieval cities I've ever seen. Narrow streets paved with stone wind around giving the sense of slow and organic growth over the centuries.  The buildings are only three or four stories high, so the streets are not dark or canyon-like.

The shops are modern, though - electronics, shoes, clothing, camping gear and lots of bakeries and sweet shops, plus the expected souvenir stores everywhere.

Santiago is famous for its tart, which is scrumptious, made only with ground almonds, eggs and sugar.  Since it is gluten-free, I will try to bring some home.

Now the rain has set in, and the forecast has no appreciable sun for the next week.  Oh, we'll.  I won't be walking much anyway.

The pilgrim mass yesterday was completely different from two weeks ago because it was All Saints Day.  More priests and a bishop in full regalia, but the wonderful change was a glorious choir, singing from a loft at the west end of the nave up high.  The voices resonated off the stones - I'm sure they were amplified, too.  I cried almost the whole time, I was so moved.  Quite a few people who had passed through Paloma y Lena were there, too, so it was lovely to see them again and hear their stories of the last week of their Caminos.

Here's mine.  I decided not to try for the whole 100 kilometers, so I took the bus about 40 Kms forward to miss some very steep downhills.  I then walked 2 and a half days.  All was fine until the last afternoon when I could feel the inflammation starting again, so I took the bus the rest of the way.

The Pilgrim Office awarded me the Campostella anyway, which made me so so happy.  I thought I didn't really care about it, but I guess I did.  I only walked 615 of the 790 kilometers, but it was a big effort anyway and it is wonderful to have that recognized!

The museum I have loved the most here is the Pobo Gallego, the museum of the Galician way of life. It contains real fishing boats of different types, crab pots, etc. and so many models of homes, barns, whole villages plus old photos.  There were two screens with narratives and photos with English text offered.  I could have stayed there all day if my legs held up, but they didn't.

I am eating through the menu of two fine restaurants, one I think is the best Italian food I've ever had, the other traditional Galician food.

Tonight I meet Tracy Saunders, a British author and psychologist who has opened her home to pilgrims who want a little time for reflection before flying home.  I will write about it after I have been there.

Lots of love,

Mary