September 29th - It has been so long since I wrote, I hhardly know where to begin.  I am now in Sahagun, an interesting red brick city of 70,000or so that was the center of Kights Templar influence for several centuries.  We're out of the stone buildings temporarily and into brick and adobe.  Also, we are on the Meseta 100 plus miles of mostly flat or gently rolling hills of grain and hay fields; flocks of sheep again, and I just had a yummy lunch of roast lamb.  Other people complain about, even dread, the Meseta but I am loving the big sky,  it is a bit like walking in western Kansas or Oklahoma, except no houses except in villages.

My favorite town recently has been Castrojeriz, a city on the base of a mound atop which is a big castle in ruins.  It's here that my friend Nia and her partner, Mau, have opened a hospital del alma."  It is a house right on the Camino, open door, up a few steps, soft, soothing music, beautiful framed photographs of people and places along the Camino with wise captions in three languages, herbal tea, cookies, comfortable chairs, a garden with more of them out back.  I was hoping Mau would be there or come back while I rested and enjoyed looking at everything but he didn't.  

I walked on and went into an outfitting shop in the Plaza Mayor to buy a belt as I had sent my pack ahead and needed something from which to hang my deerskin water bottle pouch.  The older proprietor, no English and very kind provided me oneand also told me how to find an ATM machine - "Abajo,Abajo, Abajo" smiling, and it was.  Down four flights of stairs.  On the way back I stopped at the local farmer's market and bought some green beans to munch on. Green vegetables are not the long suit of Spain I've discovered.  I spied some purple plums and picked up two.  The farmer shuffled over and said, when I asked how much? And said, something like, " no, no, no-for you nothing."  He then put about ten pls in my bag, and beaming, put out his hand to say,  "Buen Camino."  I was so moved I kissed him on the cheek!  Got to stop, eyes tired, more later.  Love, MBR

9-?-13

9-22-13

September 22

(Continued

After the wedding I saw some Cino friends I hadn't seen since Ciruena- a couple from Indiana, she doing a wonderful job walking despite asthma.  We hung out, waiting out the afternoon until the amazing equinox event at sunset.  After the special peregrine mass at 6,  with two bus loads of Spanish people attending as well as the 70 or so peregrinos we saw the bright rays of the setting sun shine through a small, carefully placed high west window, directly on the belly of Mary in the carved Annunciation scene.

She is standing in a  pose that suggests an reaction of "me? Not me!"  This architectural feat was rediscovered in 1974, but in earlier periods, Queens and other women would come from afar believing that witnessing this event would help them get pregnant.  My best fall equinox, for sure.

The next morning, having decided to ride the bus the 19 km into Burgos, I walked the 3 km over to Santovenia.  When I was close to the village, around 9 a.m. I heard fireworks then a brass band!  As I entered the little town, I saw 6 musi cians, four brass players and two drummers serenading in front of a house.  The next thing I knew a young man was pressing a plastic cup of moscatel , a local sweet wine.  Turns outthat on this third morning of the fiesta the band goes to every house to play; the family pays them a little and brings food and/or drink out for all.  Children, young people, elderly couples were all dancing.  I loved it.

I had also noticed men sweeping the streets with brooms, shovels, wheelbarrows - everyone parties all the night before - then the firehouses came out to hose down the streets.  Tradition.

Love,  mary

September 22

Yesterdayj, by chance - do I believe in coincidence? - I was arriving in San Juan de Ortega, thinking I would go on a

Bit further, but feeling tired, I saw four musicians arriving, cello, violin, flute and keyboard.  I asked them if there was a concert?  They said they were playing at a wedding inside the church in about an hour and that I would be  welcome to listen.  

I checked into the alberque and had a bite, then sat in the 11 th century stone church.  Their music was sublime- Bach, Handel, Ave Maria - the keyboard player was played by a soprano - interesting to watch the wedding from the side aisle;  the bride and groom arrived hand in hand.  Spanish women seem to have a great sense of style.

September 22

September 22